Sticky post

How a Mother’s Photos and a Whole Roasted Lamb Sent Me to Xinjiang

Some trips begin with a travel magazine. Some with a friend’s recommendation. Some with a deal you found at midnight that seemed too good to ignore. This one began with my mother. The Seed That Took Years to Grow I can’t tell you exactly how old I was when she first showed me the photos. What I remember is the feeling — that particular stillness … Continue reading How a Mother’s Photos and a Whole Roasted Lamb Sent Me to Xinjiang

Sticky post

Why I’m Turning 50 in Xinjiang

(And Not on a Beach Like a Normal Person) When people ask what I’m doing for my 50th, they expect one of two answers: a big party with a cheese tower, or a sensible beach holiday somewhere with reliable Wi-Fi and poolside cocktails. Instead, I tell them I’m going to Xinjiang — China’s vast, rugged, otherworldly far northwest — and watch their faces do something … Continue reading Why I’m Turning 50 in Xinjiang